While walking the narrow winding streets of Old Damascus, I entered through a small plain doorway into a courtyard filled with blossoming fruit trees defusing their enticing aroma. An ornamental fountain with spraying water gave one a sense of contentment and relaxation.

 

After exploring a good number of these historic houses I was captivated, as was Ibn Jubayr, a 12^th-century traveller from Al Andalus (Arab Spain) who called Damascus “the bride of cities.”

 

Some 600 years later, English historian Alexander Kinglake fell in love with the city, considering its homes, with their rich inlaying of colours and illuminated writings on the walls, more sumptuous than those of any other city in the East.

 

The traditional houses, hiding behind their walls a variety of trees and shrubs, marble floors, mosaics, stone sculptures and attractive architecture, are renowned historically as some of Damascus’s greatest attractions.

Despite the expansion of the modern city, now comprising 4-5 million inhabitants, the Old City retains a good number of 18^th- and 19^th-century homes. Between them, baths, busy souks [markets] and mausoleums, many built in the city’s style of black basalt and white limestone, combine to give Old Damascus its renowned appeal.

 

Built to suit all seasons, especially summer and winter, Damascene homes were once divided into three parts: one for men, one for women and, for the affluent, the third for servants. Famous for their use of open space, the dominant element of Middle Eastern architecture for thousands of years, these houses are tucked away in a labyrinth of winding lanes and usually blind alleys.

 

Every home has an outer door giving access to one person only. A narrow corridor leads to a large, highly decorated courtyard open to the sky. Grape vines, jasmine, and lemon, orange and other citrus fruits, are among the many plants found in the courtyard of old Damascene homes. In spring, they become a perfumery of seductive odours. 

Leading off from the courtyard, the living quarters – including the guest room, sitting room and iwan (a roofed sitting room with a raised floor) – are decorated with carvings and mosaics. They feature sumptuous wooden ceilings and built-in cupboards, marble floors of different geometric designs and colours, huge wooden-framed mirrors, and furniture inlaid with mother of pearl.

 

The upper storeys, partially projecting over the street, were the living rooms. Their latticed windows gave the women of the household a chance to see the happenings of the street below, but not be seen themselves.

 

Some of the larger family homes are made of stone, but the majority are built of mud brick within a wood framework. Renovations need to be carried out at least every few years or the houses will begin to deteriorate and, in about a dozen years, collapse. Every year, the roofs have to be thickened with mud against the challenge of winter.

 

A century ago there were some 20,000 of these traditional Damascus homes, but today less then half remain. Early in the last century, the wealthy began moving to the suburbs, and the poor who moved in did not have the money for repairs. Also, many of the larger houses became smaller and smaller as generation after generation they were gradually divided up between family members.

 

Syria’s government a few decades ago realised it must protect its national heritage, especially the old Damascene homes. This fit nicely into its plans for tourism development, as few nations in the world have such a heritage crying out for preservation and appreciation.

 

During the last half century, some of the historic homes have been restored by local and foreign organisations, mostly for commercial purposes. This has led to an explosion of cafes, restaurants and cultural centres in these renovated homes, which have become meccas for Damascenes and tourists seeking fine dining and entertainment.

 

These homes are now considered an important part of the heritage of the city, and an indication of the elegance of Damascene life in the past. One of the oldest in Damascus, Beit Jabri – built in 1737 – has been partially restored and turned into a delightful café with a unique fresh atmosphere.

 

A two-floor complex comprising 23 rooms, it remained deserted for about two-dozen years, until one family member opened in it a café and, from the money earned, restored the house. This proved very successful: the house and its dining area, which even has an internet café, overflows daily with Damascenes and tourists. Clients can feel the pulse of Old Damascus while enjoying their drink, water pipe or meal, which costs about $5.             

 

Another of these homes contains Narcissus Palace in the Qamariya area. Built in 1735, it is considered a historical monument of Damascus. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, and at night an oud (Arabic flute) player performs. After renovation of the home, Narcissus opened a few years ago as a restaurant, offering local Damascene food. There are plans for the second floor to become an art gallery.

 

My tourist guide said that in the city’s Qamariya district, there are many old homes being renovated as restaurants. “They’re being restored according to their original plans, with arabesque floral motifs and the revival of their original colours and designs,” he said. “They’re exactly what tourists are seeking.”

 

On the other hand, he added, in the Bab Touma quarter, noted for its old Damascene homes which have been renovated into “European-style restaurants,” their popularity among tourists is very low. “The tourists want something real, with the Damascus-Arab touch,” he explained. “This is why the restaurants in the Qamariya section are so popular and always packed with tourists and even Syrians.”

 

A few of the other renovated old Damascene homes are: the Nofa family home which now houses the Arabesque Restaurant; Beit Al Barudi, housing the Hasan Al Kharrat School; and Beit Nizam, Beit Na’san, Beit Dahda, Dar Al Suba’I, and a number of others open to visitors. They all relay to travellers a hidden world of comfort, history and mystique. 

 

 

Good Place to Stay in Damascus

 

The top places to stay are the Cham Palaces and Hotels, a deluxe chain covering the whole of Syria. The Cham Palace, the flagship of the chain, located in the heart of Damascus,is the place to stay. A luxury abode, its inside is richly decorated with inland mother-of-pearl furniture and panels, and its lobby is seemingly out of the Arabian Nights. For prices and for room reservations in all the Cham Palace Hotels, check www.chamhotels.com/syria.html. As well, Chamtours and Chamcar Rentalscover the whole of Syria.

 

For further information, see www.syriatourism.org