The gas-rich state of Qatar in the Arabian Gulf is not an obvious tourist destination. With a population of under a million, a conservative Islamic culture, searingly hot weather and little in the way of historical sights or resorts, a few years ago only the most eccentric of travelers would have chosen to visit.

 

But Qatar’s outward-looking ruler, Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani, is determined to change all this. Having gained fame as the founder and patron of Al Jazeera, and buoyed by an unprecedented inflow of oil and gas revenue, he is undertaking a spending spree aimed at making the capital Doha a destination in its own right. 

At present, this might just appear like wishful thinking as there simply is not much to do there, unless your idea of fun is strolling through a freezer-like mall of middle-of-the-range high-street shops, or baking by the pool of an anodyne five-star hotel.

However, a glance at the skyline of cranes and half-constructed buildings over Doha’s West Bay testifies to Sheikh Hamad’s ambition. Qatar is positioning itself as a sporting destination, and much of the building work is being frantically constructed ahead of December’s Asian Games, which Doha will host. But despite the efforts of Asian migrant workers, it looks like many of the projects will be delayed.

 

While we wait for Doha’s new skyline, is there any reason to go there now? Despite appearances, the answer is yes.

Its best asset is undoubtedly its surrounding desert, and specifically the Khor Al Udeid, a unique expanse of sand dunes which melts into the sea. Potentially a place of calm and contemplation, it is more often a site of testosterone-fuelled craziness as Qatar’s youth converge each weekend to race their four-wheel drives in the national sport of dune-bashing.

This consists of driving as fast and as dangerously as you can over sand dunes several metres high, egged on by spectators. It is actually quite fun, and as the sun sets through an ochre-tinged sky, you get a sense of the peculiar mix of money, technology, barrenness and Bedouin mores which make up Qatar.

 

Back to Doha itself, it is not a city for strolling around. It requires wheels, and unfortunately taxis are not easy to come by.

 

One area that is pleasant to walk in, however, is Souq Al Waakif – a reconstructed traditional-style souq [market] selling arts and crafts. It sounds terribly kitsch, but has been constructed beautifully. Among the carpets and spices, you will spot a shop for falconry, a traditional Bedouin sport still much practiced. The merchants in the souq are not Qatari of course – many come from Syria, Iran or nearby Oman.

 

This cultural mix also means the city sports an impressive selection of restaurants – Arabic, Persian and Indian. Try Layali on Salwa Road for excellent Lebanese, or Ras Al Nasaa on the Corniche for a sheesha [water pipe] with a sea view. The local fish is excellent.

 

When one reads of the new hotels and beach resorts, arrogant sky scrapers and increasingly traffic-clogged streets, and as Qataris themselves become an increasingly rare sight, it is easy to see Doha as a Dubai wannabe. But it is not. Qatar remains conservative, alcohol is prohibited outside the five-star hotels, and anyone looking for a thriving nightlife will be disappointed.

 

An indication of the direction the country wants to take can be seen in the impressive Museum of Islamic Arts taking shape on the Corniche. A masterpiece of modern architecture and set to house a collection of Islamic art from the seventh to the 19th century, the museum will put Doha on the cultural map.